Anyone using the transverter solution from Rene, PE1CMO?

  • Thank you so much ... Frank and Remco.

    I have ordered what I 'think' is the full Monty from Rene - including the waterproof box.


    I think that the special transverter may have been for Wolfgang HB9RYZ but I am not sure!

    Since the feed and the transverter both use N-type connectors, I will use Ecoflex 15+ and keep the run as short as I can. It all depends on where I have to put the dish in order to 'see' the satellite. It should not have to be more than ten metres I think!


    73 David

  • David,


    Ecoflex15 inside the house is overkill i think. Better use some Aircell 7 or Rg142 types, easier to use for short runs. I use that too, even thinner ones.And to the dish, you can even use Ecoflex10, that gives you almost 3dB loss on 2.4GHz. You will see with max 5w on a 1m dish,ur signal will be more then 20dB above the transponder noise. At my setup, 95cm offset, i use 1.50m Sucoflex-104 (so 0.5dB loss) between transverterbox and feed.


    Jerry

  • Hi Jerry,


    you're kidding.

    You compare Sucoflex104 with RG142. Seriously?

    6m of RG142 on 2400MHz and two Connectors .... 6db Loss, Sucoflex104 .... 2db.

    G4NRT wrote he needs 5 to 6 meter.

    Ok your are right, the ECOFLEX-15 is to mutch for indoor and SUCOFLEX-104 with 6m costs about 100Euro/m.

    Why not LCF14-50j ? Outer Diameter is 8mm, mount the connector without spezial tools, maybe SCF14-50 and only 1,2db loss at 5m.

    Did you measure s11 with a RG cable after laying? It's terrible.

  • Ok, i didn't express me well. I don't compare them, it's just a thought. For jumpers i use Aircell7 inside and outside, and the sucoflex,or RG142 types jumpers is just what i have in the box here, and is used on the dishes They are expensive,yes, but i meant to use smaller diameter coax to make it more flexible. Which...it depends on how much someone wants to spent his money for. Sorry for the misunderstanding.


    Jerry

  • Thanks guys!


    The Ecoflex (10 or 15) will run from the shack to the dish. The PA3FYM dual band feed has N-Connectors as does Rene’s transverter.


    I have some, already built, Ecoflex 15+ patch cables one of which I will repurpose to connect to the rig. Overkill or not!


    73, David

  • Very happy today ... I received a BIG box from PE1CMO containing my transverter (containing a 20w PA) along with two Meanwell power supplies, one for 12v and the other for 30v to drive the PA. The transverter is a really solid piece of kit and is very weighty with its large heatsink!


    Also in the box was my shiny new PA3FYM dual band feed along with modified SR-320 LNB and two plastic boxes to build it all into. My next step is to figure out how to modify the LNB to fit around the dual band feed. I think that Google will be my friend here!


    I may try using my DJ7GP dual feed first as it can go onto the dish as it is!


    I just wish that work didn't keep intervening in my playing with my new toys!


    David G4NRT

  • G4NRT David, I think the LNB is already modified to work with the 25 MHz reference (which is in the transverter). Note: his modified LNB's work with 5V, so do not try to connect this to a regular satellite transceiver! The reason behind the 5V power supply is that a very denoised power supply is offered to minimise phase noise of the LNB-LO.

    I don't know how Rene ships the LNB, but when it has a horn on it, the horn has to be cut off (with a hack saw) in such a way that you've maximal amount of 'flesh' for the LNB-waveguide. The outer diameter of the LNB-waveguide is ca. 20mm and with some sandpaper it fits inside the dualband feed waveguide. Concerning the boxes, here is a pictrue how Rene did it himself.

  • Thanks Remco.


    I think I will dismantle the plastic from the LNB (which is already modified) and see how to cut away the metal. How much of the original LNB should be inside your dual feed?


    Actually, it may be better to make a new thread for these discussions. I’ll start one when I get home tonight!


    73, David

  • Hi David

    The XLR connector was missing so I had to order this connector here in Switzerland. I hope I can switch on the transverter this week for the first tests. I'm also using the Leo Bodnar GPSDO, but I'm not sure which mA setting I have to use.


    Output power level (measured at 10MHz, fundamental power channel):

    +13.3dBm, drive setting 32mA

    +12.7dBm, drive setting 24mA

    +11.4dBm, drive setting 16mA

    +7.7dBm, drive setting 8mA


    73, Wolfgang

  • HB9RYZ I don't have a Bodnar GPSDO so I can't help you directly with settings, the only advise I can give: "Try it" and see/hear you've the beacon at (14x).550 ( x = 4 - 7) *


    * Looking at your pictures it seems that you are indeed the one with the (special) 2m option and it seems that the (seperate) converter is inside the waterproof box?

  • Looking at your photo Wolfgang, did you cut the feed horn off the LNB and then put it back into the case?

    This is my LNB naked:



    I plan to cut where I have drawn the red line. Is that the correct place? I think I may well then put it back into the original plastic case and seal it.

    What do you think? I am sorry for all these dumb questions but this is my first venture in the world of dishes and LNBs!

    73 David G4NRT

  • G4NRT Don't worry, we'll spoon feed you accordingly ; -)

    Yes, that is the place ... you'll notice that the outer diameter of the 'flesh' is almost

    20mm (somewhat more) , so with a file and some sand paper the diameter can be reduced so that it fits neatly in the copper pipe. (Beware that the file dust stays out of the LNB-waveguide)