Yes,
close the case agn and drill a hole in the cap.
That is so interesting! I would have guessed that a much better fit would be needed.
Do you recommend inserting the POTY as is, or flattened at the end, as suggested by someone else as in the attached photo?
Hm,
I have no experience with adapting square to round.
But, I don´t believe thats necessary to for such a smooth flatten.
Comercial round to square adapter have a step from square to round.
I would try slide the round waveguide as much as possible in the feedhorn through a 22m hole in the plastic cap.
There is also a crossing from round to square ...
Just connect them together and it will work well enough.
Mike
Hm,
I have no experience with adapting square to round.
But, I don´t believe thats necessary to for such a smooth flatten.
Comercial round to square adapter have a step from square to round.
Just connect them together and it will work well enough.
OK, I'm ready to cut the tube, I've not been able to remove the old LNB. How is the POTY secured to the LNB. Just glue to the plastic cap?
Just glue to the plastic cap?
Yes, you need only glue for waterresistance and maybe mechanical fixing through the pastic cap.
There is no electrical or HF influence.
Yes, you need only glue for waterresistance and maybe mechanical fixing through the pastic cap.
There is no electrical or HF influence.
I'll try it tonight as soon as it stops raining.
I'll try it tonight as soon as it stops raining.
Very good!
Remember, you will get 2-3 dB more RX Signal if you add a electrical lense.
So be not worried if without lense the RX signal is 2-3 dB less than before.
I'll try it tonight as soon as it stops raining.
I use the adaptor LNB cap which can be found here:
https://github.com/dl9sec/POTY_Parts
73, Thorsten
Remember, you will get 2-3 dB more RX Signal if you add a electrical lense.
So be not worried if without lense the RX signal is 2-3 dB less than before.
Yes, exactly as you said. I'm seeing signals but weaker than before. It is also still raining which does not help the signal.
Noted a couple of mechanical issues:
1) I'll have to file out a groove on the outside of the plastic mount, the N connector jack and plug will not pass.
2) The bottom of the reflector touches the metal arm, is that a problem?
I use the adaptor LNB cap which can be found here:
https://github.com/dl9sec/POTY_Parts
73, Thorsten
Thanks, Thorsten! Is that cap available for sale individually? Would it fit my LNB? It looks much nicer than my home made hole in the cap.
Thanks, Thorsten! Is that cap available for sale individually? Would it fit my LNB? It looks much nicer than my home made hole in the cap.
Sorry, no sale, just sharing the model for 3D printing.
It fits on a GM-201 LNB. It is a simple model made with FreeCAD, so adapting to another diameter should be straight forward...
The best lens for a offset dish is the original Lens from a rocket LNB.
You can buy this cheap LNB and remove the lense.
Any other options for a good lens? The rocket LNB is hard to find. The one in the link from amazon.de has a brutal shipping charge to Slovakia.
1) I'll have to file out a groove on the outside of the plastic mount, the N connector jack and plug will not pass.
Yes, thats often to do.
2) The bottom of the reflector touches the metal arm, is that a problem?
The contact itself is no problem, but, if the distance of the focus is a bit wider from dish you have no chance to adjust.
At some offset system it is necessyry to enlarge the feed arm a few cm to get the focus point on the right position in front of the waveguide from the POTY
So, for excact adjustment you need first the electrical lense, because the focuspoint with lense is 1-2 cm in front of the waveguide.
Any other options for a good lens?
Do you have someone who can print 3-D ?
You can 3-D print a electrical lense.
Or turn a piece of Teflon with a lathe.
Do you have someone who can print 3-D ?
You can 3-D print a electrical lense.
Or turn a piece of Teflon with a lathe.
Unfortunately, I have no access to 3D printer or lathe, I'll need to buy the lens.
Thanks much for answering my other questions. Still raining here today but I'll try to make some progress.
At least I can send a lense from here via postal to you if its helpful.
At least I can send a lense from here via postal to you if its helpful.
That's very kind of you! I'll send you a private message with my address. I can pay you via Paypal or however else you prefer.
73, Bill
Yes, thats often to do.
This looks like it will be more difficult than I first thought. To enable the POTY to sit flush on the mount, as indicated in the drawing in post #5 above. I'll have to cut completely through the holder and also cut a dent into the 40mm to 23mm adapter.
Ok, I see
You can try do make a wooden or plastic 40 / 22mm excentric adapter.
If you place the excentric exakt vertikal you only have to adjust the elevation of your dish.
Mabye then is on the upper side of the holder enogh place for the N-Connector.
Ok, I see
You can try do make a wooden or plastic 40 / 22mm excentric adapter.
If you place the excentric exakt vertikal you only have to adjust the elevation of your dish.
Mabye then is on the upper side of the holder enogh place for the N-Connector.
Very clever! But even with no adapter, the female N connector barely passes. The male connector would not pass. Could I extend the arm so that the mount/adapter attaches lower on the POTY, away from the N connector, as in the drawing below?
Yes, 
to lengthen is the better idea, and you have more place/distance with the POTY reflector disk to the feed arm.
You have also a wider area to slide the POTY in direction to the dish reflector to find the best position for focus.
