Posts by G0MJW

    Well I did wonder. I am not aware it doesn't allow that. It could be Evariste does is automatically. I think you just use the standard commands. If that's actually the case it's simple enough to load the earlier version via the USB drive and eject and apply the standard command. Google should have found this as the top hit, at least it did for me


    Adalm Pluto -New official firmware 0.32


    Advice - use 0.31


    Mike

    Here is my Bat file for 160kb/s. I see several differences.


    c:\ffmpeg\bin\ffmpeg -f dshow -i video="OBS-Camera" -thread_queue_size 512 -f dshow -i audio="OBS-Audio" -vcodec hevc_nvenc -s 1280x720 -bf 0 -pix_fmt yuv420p -b:v 80k -r 10 -preset slow -profile:v main -rc cbr_hq -rc-lookahead 5 -acodec aac -aac_coder twoloop -ar 48000 -ac 1 -b:a 24k -f mpegts -muxrate 160k -streamid 0:256 -streamid 1:257 -max_delay 2500000 -pcr_period 40 -pat_period 0.4 "udp://192.168.1.46:8282?pkt_size=1316"


    You have that extra buffer and a very different network address. I tested this to VLC, it took a good while to appear but worked OK. So then I tried yours, modified to send to 127.0.0.1:1234. It also worked fine. So is it the IP address? Firewall maybe?

    Hi,

    When I do DATV reception using a POTY feeder the MER drops to about 4 vs 10 without POTY. The same poty feeder receive NB fine. I have test various LNB and POTY feeders with out a conclusion. Any proposals or ideas?

    What lens are you using. Do you have it at the focus. The usual reason for this is the wrong lens for the dish or not having it as the focus by trying to reuse the existing LNB mount but not understanding the lens needs to be at the focus, not at some mechanically convenient point dictated by the original LNB holder.


    The reason it works for NB is the transponder noise floor is much higher so what you are losing on receive is not apparent. For DATV, the same effect applies, but only for dishes larger than 1.2m with efficient feeds. Therefore it is much much more critical to adjust the feed correctly. Beacon MER is a good indicator, but bear in mind it depends on transponder loading.

    4Msymbols. It locks fine. I just doesn't decode the data.

    This is not on the satellite. It's DVB-S local repeater. Line of sight, 20 dB C/N. No multipath. Rarely it gets a frame but soon loses sync. I have given up as I don't think the package is able to do this at the moment. Something is probably broken so I will wait for the next version.

    I just can't get this last version to work in DVB-S. It locks to the signal, nice clean constellation, but it refuses sync. Does anyone know if this actually works in DVB-S? 4Ms?

    The question was : when I adjust the POTY for optimum SWR moving plates does the circulation affected?

    Yes. PLEASE DO NOT ADJUST LIKE THIS FOR MINIMUM VSWR. HOW MANY TIMES MUST I REPEAT THIS ? The same point comes up again and again and again. If you tune like that the chances are you will produce a linear antenna. HF DXCC types old antenna lore does not apply! POTY is a complex antenna.


    Now to get those resonances right build accurately. Exactly 3.00 mm spacing. No deviations in sizes, correct connector type. To tune if required use a vector network analyser and look and what's happening on a Smith Chart. If that's too difficult, perhaps ask someone for help. Really it needs the proper tools. If you really can't find a VNWA find where it is matching. If it's high gently bend all four corners towards the reflector just a little. Do it evenly and symmetrically. See what happens. If it's really far off frequency the dimensions are not correct.


    Here is mine - before and after.


      




    Mike

    I would suggest doing some research on the Lime boards. It strongly depends which frequency band output you have selected. Perhaps the newer one is detecting differently. It could also be broken or the match makes it appear so. But does it really matter that they are different as long as you know? I would not run the lime anywhere near peak output.

    It looks well made. A ruler will not be accurate enough. Do you have a 3mm drill bit for example?


    What you need to do is find something 3mm thick (exactly, not approximately) and put it between the plates to measure the spacing. A metal shim is good for this. If it is not 3mm then you need to make it 3mm by resoldering the patch with a blowtorch or hot air gun. If you use a damp cloth behind you can prevent the reflector and connector from unsoldering while you melt the solder on the patch.


    Some people found a slightly under 3mm (say 2.9mm) aluminium shim between the plates is a good way to get a 3mm spacing. The difference allows for it not being easy to ensure it is tightly compressed together when at 350c. When that's done you should have a good match but if not it is possible to adjust be very slightly bending the patch. However you really need to have access test equipment to do this. They are only $60 for a Nanovna working to 3 GHz, but I recognise that unlike in the UK, you can buy a lot of beer for $60 in OM, so perhaps the local radio club has something they can lend?

    Hi Bill


    The POTY spacing and dimensions are critical for it to work. 4mm spacing is a 25% error so far to far out. I would suggest re-soldering it with a temporary 3mm spacer to get it correct. Then you might need to bend a little to get best match. Starting from 4mm spacing would not be good. Perhaps you can show a more detailed image ? The critical spacing is the gap between the plates but also the way the connector is mounted matters. There should be no screws coming into the gap.


    Mike

    Here is what I came up with last night. With this setup, I could hear the beacon and some QSOs, but signals were weak. On TX, I could not see my signal on the waterfall. So more work needed.


    My guess is that the problem is the position of the feed. The feed is now the same distance from the feed as it was in the original, where it was working well, but in the original the bottom of the reflector was touching the mount, now it is about 2 cm above, so it is not pointing to the same spot on the dish. Any way to fix this?


    73, bill

    The simple way to fix the height change to grab one side of the mount firmly with one hand, the end of the boom with the other and bend the boom to the right spot. Most LNB supports for inexpensive dishes are suitably flexible to do this.


    Mike